Rogan Josh

Rogan Josh is one of the most iconic dishes from Kashmir, India and this beautiful red curry is every bit as delicious as it looks. Big chunks of goat or lamb are slowly simmered with warm spices and yogurt until the meat is fall-apart tender and the gravy is rich and intensely flavorful.

And don’t let that fiery red color fool you. This isn’t an overwhelmingly hot curry. Kashmiri chilies are famous for giving dishes a gorgeous deep red color without packing the same punch as hotter varieties.

I have cooked a lot of Indian curries over the years, but Rogan Josh is quite different from the onion and tomato based gravies many of us are familiar with. My recipe today is based on the traditional Kashmiri Pandit style, and there are no onions, garlic or tomatoes in the pot.

Instead, the magic comes from a unique combination of fennel, dried ginger, hing, yogurt and whole spices, along with plenty of Kashmiri chili powder for that signature color.

And then there is my favorite part. At the very end, I infuse ratan jot in ghee until it turns a spectacular ruby red and pour it over the finished curry. It’s optional, but if you can get your hands on ratan jot, it gives Rogan Josh that extra wow factor.

Now, Rogan Josh has a particularly interesting story because there isn’t just one traditional version. Both Kashmiri Pandit and Kashmiri Muslim cuisines have their own styles of this famous curry, with some important differences in the ingredients and cooking methods.

So before we get cooking, let me tell you a little about what makes a real Kashmiri Rogan Josh so special.

What is Rogan Josh?

Rogan Josh is a traditional Kashmiri curry of goat, mutton or lamb slowly cooked with aromatic spices. It is especially famous for its beautiful deep red color.

The dish has Persian influences that go back centuries and eventually became an important part of Kashmiri cuisine. Even the name has Persian roots, with “rogan” associated with oil or fat and “josh” with heat or intensity.

One thing I love about Rogan Josh is how different its flavor profile is from many other Indian curries. Fennel and dried ginger are especially prominent, along with cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and Kashmiri chili.

Two Traditional Styles of Rogan Josh

There are two main Kashmiri traditions of Rogan Josh, one from Kashmiri Pandit cuisine and another from Kashmiri Muslim cuisine. Both are authentic, but there are some interesting differences between them.

My recipe is based on the Kashmiri Pandit version, which traditionally doesn’t use onions or garlic. It also doesn’t rely on tomatoes for the gravy.

The Kashmiri Muslim version differs mainly in the aromatics. While the Pandit version traditionally avoids onions and garlic, the Muslim version can include them. Rogan Josh is also an important dish in Wazwan, the elaborate multi-course feast that is an important part of Kashmiri Muslim cuisine.

So if you’ve seen Rogan Josh recipes that look completely different from one another, that doesn’t necessarily mean one is authentic and the other isn’t. They may simply come from different Kashmiri culinary traditions.

The version I’m sharing today is the Pandit style, so you won’t find any onions, garlic or tomatoes in my pot. Instead, we’re going to let those beautiful Kashmiri spices and slowly cooked meat do all the talking.

Ingredients Needed

Many of the ingredients here are very specific to Indian cooking. For an authentic rogan josh, I really recommend going to the effort to acquire them. If you don’t have an Indian grocery store nearby, they can all be ordered online.

I have included exact ingredient amounts in the recipe card at the end of this post.

• Goat or lamb – Traditionally, Rogan Josh is made with mutton. This can get a little confusing, because in India the term mutton is commonly used for goat meat, while in the United States it generally means meat from a mature sheep. I love goat here for its rich flavor, but lamb works beautifully too. Lamb shoulder is a great choice.
• Mustard oil – Mustard oil is typically used in Rogan Josh and it adds a distinctive pungent, savory flavor to the curry. I heat it until it reaches its smoking point, which mellows its sharp raw taste. Still it does have a stronger taste, so if you prefer something milder, you can use ghee instead.
• Whole spices – Bay leaves, black cardamom, green cardamom, cloves and cinnamon create a wonderfully aromatic base.
• Kashmiri red chili powder – This is responsible for much of that gorgeous red color. Kashmiri chilies are prized for their color and flavor without being nearly as hot as something like cayenne. That’s why I can use a generous amount here without making the curry overwhelmingly spicy. I really recommend using actual Kashmiri chili powder rather than substituting another variety.
• Dried ginger powder – Also known as saunth or sonth, dried ginger is a characteristic ingredient in Kashmiri cooking. It has a different flavor than fresh ginger, so I don’t recommend substituting fresh ginger here.
• Fennel powder – Another signature flavor in Kashmiri cuisine. It adds a subtle sweetness and beautiful fragrance that pairs especially well with goat and lamb. The combination of fennel and dried ginger is one of the things that makes Rogan Josh taste so distinctive.
• Curd (yogurt) – Indian curd is similar to plain yogurt. I use full-fat plain yogurt, which adds richness and a pleasant tang to the gravy.
• Hing – Also known as asafoetida, this is particularly useful in Kashmiri Pandit cooking, where onions and garlic are traditionally avoided. It smells very pungent straight from the container, but once cooked it mellows considerably and adds wonderful savory depth. A little goes a long way.
• Cumin – Adds a little earthy warmth to the gravy.
• Garam masala – I add just a small amount at the end, and even that is optional. I don’t want it overpowering the other distinctive flavors.
• Ratan jot – This dried root is traditionally used to give Rogan Josh its gorgeous deep red color. I gently infuse it in ghee until the fat turns ruby red, then strain it and pour the colored ghee into the finished curry. It doesn’t add much flavor, so it’s completely optional, but I love the beautiful color it gives the finished dish. Using ratan jot also gives this Rogan Josh a special authentic touch that you won’t find in most restaurant versions.

How to Make Rogan Josh

Heat the Mustard Oil: Start by heating the mustard oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Let it come all the way to its smoking point, which helps mellow out that stronger, pungent flavor mustard oil naturally has. Once it starts smoking, lower the heat slightly.

Bloom the Whole Spices: Add the bay leaves, black and green cardamom, cloves and cinnamon to the hot oil. Let them sizzle for a minute or two, just until they become wonderfully fragrant. This quick blooming releases their flavors into the oil and creates the aromatic base for the curry.

Brown the Goat or Lamb: Add the meat and turn the heat up high. Cook for about 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the pieces develop some nice color. Don’t rush through this part. Giving the meat a good sear adds another layer of flavor to the finished Rogan Josh.

Build That Beautiful Red Color: Now add the Kashmiri chili powder and mix it thoroughly with the meat. Three tablespoons may look like a lot, but Kashmiri chili is much milder than hotter chili powders and gives Rogan Josh its characteristic deep red color. Cook everything together for another 5 to 6 minutes, stirring frequently so the chili doesn’t scorch.

Add the Remaining Spices and Yogurt: Add the salt, dried ginger, fennel, yogurt, hing, cumin, garam masala powder. Mix everything really well so the meat gets evenly coated with all those spices.

Let it cook for another 5 to 6 minutes. By now, you should have a wonderfully fragrant mixture with that gorgeous red color really starting to develop.

Simmer slowly: Add enough hot water to just cover the meat and bring everything to a gentle boil. Then lower the heat, cover the pot and let it slowly simmer for about 2½ to 3 hours.

Check on it occasionally, giving everything a stir and adding a little more hot water whenever necessary. You don’t want the bottom of the pot drying out or the spices scorching. Goat can take longer than lamb, so don’t rely entirely on the clock. Keep cooking until the meat is beautifully tender.

Once the meat is tender, take a look at your gravy. You want it rich and concentrated rather than thin and watery. If there is still too much liquid, leave the pot uncovered and let it simmer until the gravy reaches the consistency you like.

Make the Ratan Jot Ghee: While the curry finishes, gently heat the ghee in a small pan over low heat. Add the ratan jot and let it infuse for about 1 to 2 minutes.

You’ll see the ghee gradually take on that spectacular ruby-red color. Keep the heat gentle here. You’re infusing the color into the ghee rather than frying the ratan jot.

Give Your Rogan Josh Its Final Touch: Strain out and discard the ratan jot, then pour that gorgeous red ghee over the finished Rogan Josh.

Give it a gentle stir and you’re done. After all that slow cooking, you have beautifully tender meat surrounded by a rich, aromatic, deep red gravy. This is one seriously special curry!

Alpana’s Tips

• Use Kashmiri chili powder: This is one of the most important ingredients in the entire dish. You want its brilliant color and relatively mild heat. Don’t replace 3 tablespoons of Kashmiri chili powder with 3 tablespoons of cayenne or paprika!
• Use full-fat yogurt: It gives the gravy a richer texture and is less likely to split.
• Don’t rush the meat: Goat especially can take some time to become tender. Go by tenderness rather than strictly by the clock.
• Bone-in meat is great here: If you can find bone-in goat or lamb, those bones and connective tissues add even more richness to the gravy during the long simmer.
• Don’t add too much water initially: Add enough to just cover the meat. You can always add more as it cooks, but you don’t want to end up with a thin, watery curry.
• Use hot water: This keeps the temperature of the curry from dropping dramatically when you add the liquid.
• Keep an eye on it toward the end: As the gravy reduces, stir it more frequently so those spices don’t catch on the bottom of the pot.
• Ratan jot is optional: Don’t skip the recipe just because you can’t find it. Kashmiri chili powder already gives the curry plenty of color. But if you do find ratan jot, that ruby-red finishing ghee is absolutely beautiful.

What to Serve with Rogan Josh

For me, plain steamed basmati rice is the perfect pairing for Rogan Josh. It lets all those beautiful Kashmiri flavors shine and soaks up that rich red gravy wonderfully.

You can also serve it with naan or roti for scooping up every last bit of gravy.

If you’re planning a larger Indian feast, add a simple dal, vegetable side like aloo gobi and some cooling raita.

Leftovers and Storage

You can refrigerate leftover Rogan Josh in an airtight container for 3 to 4 days. In fact, this is one of those curries that tastes fantastic the next day, so I often make it ahead of time. As it rests overnight, all those spices have even more time to mingle with the meat and gravy.

It also freezes very well. Once completely cooled, transfer it to a freezer-safe container and freeze for up to 3 months.

Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, then reheat gently on the stovetop until hot throughout, adding a small splash of water if the gravy has become too thick.

Frequently Asked Questions

Try my Authentic Taste of Kashmir! This Rogan Josh is such a beautiful example of how a handful of carefully chosen spices can create incredible flavor. There are no onions, garlic or tomatoes hiding in the gravy, just tender goat or lamb surrounded by the warm flavors of Kashmiri chili and some warm spices.

If you want to experience Rogan Josh beyond the versions commonly found on restaurant menus, this Kashmiri Pandit style is one to try. Get that pot slowly simmering, cook some rice alongside, and enjoy a true taste of Kashmir right in your own kitchen.

More popular Indian Recipes:
Tandoori Chicken
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Methi Chicken
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Aloo Gobi

Recipe Video

Rogan Josh (Recipe + Video)

Yield: 8 servings

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 3 hours

Total Time: 3 hours 15 minutes

Rogan Josh is an authentic Kashmiri curry with tender goat or lamb slowly simmered with yogurt, Kashmiri chili, fennel, dried ginger, and aromatic spices.

5.0 Stars (4 Reviews)

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Ingredients

• ⅓ cup mustard oil (you can sub it with ghee, see note)
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 black cardamom pods
• 5-6 green cardamom pods
• 4-5 cloves
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 3 pounds goat or lamb, cut into big chunks
• 3 tablespoons Kashmiri red chili powder
• salt, to taste
• 2 teaspoons ginger powder
• 2 teaspoons fennel powder
• 1 cup yogurt
• ¼ teaspoon hing (optional)
• 1 teaspoon cumin
• ¼ teaspoon garam masala powder

To Finish with Ratan Jot (optional)

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• 3 tablespoon ghee
• 1 big stick Ratan Jot

For Garnish

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• ginger, julienne cut
• cilantro, chopped

Instructions

1. Heat the mustard oil in a large, heavy bottomed pot over medium-high heat until it reaches the smoking point. This step helps mellow the sharp, pungent flavor of the mustard oil and gives it a smoother taste. Once it starts to smoke, reduce the heat slightly.
2. Add the bay leaves, black cardamom, green cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon stick. Sauté for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant.
3. Add the goat or lamb and cook over high heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the meat is lightly browned on all sides.
4. Add the Kashmiri red chili powder and mix well with the meat and cook for 5-6 minutes, covering part of the time. Add salt, ginger powder, fennel powder, curd, hing, cumin, garam masala powder and a splash of water. Mix well until the meat is evenly coated. Cook for 5-6 minutes.
5. Add enough hot water to just cover the meat and bring it to a gentle boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 2½ to 3 hours, adding more hot water as needed, until the meat is tender and the gravy has thickened. Keep an eye on the curry as it cooks, stirring occasionally and adding more hot water as needed. This will help prevent the meat and spices from sticking to the bottom of the pot or scorching.
6. If using ratan jot, heat the ghee in a small pan over low heat. Add the ratan jot and let it infuse for 1 to 2 minutes, until the ghee turns a deep red color. Strain the ghee and discard the ratan jot.
7. Pour the infused ghee over the curry and gently stir to combine.
8. Garnish with julienned ginger and chopped cilantro before serving.

Notes

• Mustard oil: Traditionally, mustard oil gives the dish its distinctive bold, pungent flavor. If you prefer a milder taste, or simply don’t have mustard oil, you can substitute it with ghee. Ghee adds a rich, buttery flavor and makes the dish especially luxurious, though it won’t have the characteristic sharpness of mustard oil.
• You can refrigerate leftover Rogan Josh in an airtight container for 3 to 4 days. In fact, this is one of those curries that tastes fantastic the next day, so I often make it ahead of time. As it rests overnight, all those spices have even more time to mingle with the meat and gravy.
• It also freezes very well. Once completely cooled, transfer it to a freezer-safe container and freeze for up to 3 months.

Nutrition Information

Yield 8 Serving Size 1
Amount Per Serving Calories 608Total Fat 42gSaturated Fat 19gUnsaturated Fat 23gCholesterol 183mgSodium 416mgCarbohydrates 7gFiber 3gSugar 3gProtein 44g

Nutrition information is automatically calculated, so should only be used as an approximation.

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